{"id":69408,"date":"2010-04-10T09:30:48","date_gmt":"2010-04-10T07:30:48","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.lemouching.com\/old\/2010\/04\/le-mouching-in-nz-the-mataura-kiwi-mecca-incontournable-mataura\/"},"modified":"2010-04-10T09:30:48","modified_gmt":"2010-04-10T07:30:48","slug":"le-mouching-in-nz-the-mataura-kiwi-mecca-incontournable-mataura","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/lemouching.com\/en\/2010\/04\/le-mouching-in-nz-the-mataura-kiwi-mecca-incontournable-mataura\/","title":{"rendered":"LE MOUCHING IN NZ \/ THE MATAURA, KIWI MECCA \u2013\u00a0INCONTOURNABLE\u00a0MATAURA"},"content":{"rendered":"

Quand ce ne sont pas des canyons o\u00f9 au hasard d’un tournant d\u00e9guerpissent des moutons affol\u00e9s, il s’\u00e9tale tout au long de la piste des prairies d’herbes hautes couleur lie-de-vin. Malgr\u00e9 un temps changeant venteux avec du crachin, impossible de ne pas s’enthousiasmer par tant de beaut\u00e9 . J’intensifie cette euphorie avec l’\u00e9coute volume maximale de Wolfmother dont le rock m\u00e9lodieux mais couillu (check mind’s eye !<\/a>) fonctionne \u00e0 merveille dans ces atmosph\u00e8res sauvages et min\u00e9rales.<\/p>\n

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La ballade se finit dans un festival de guets et je prie pour que le moteur ne se noie pas. Apr\u00e8s 3h de conduite sportive j’arrive enfin au bout du plateau pour apercevoir en contrebas une verte vall\u00e9e gris\u00e9e par les averses disparates, au fond des perc\u00e9es de lumi\u00e8re sur les contreforts apportent une touche biblique \u00e0 ce panorama pastorale. Encore une demie heure de descente sur une route en colima\u00e7on et je retrouve l’asphalte \u00e9puis\u00e9 mais gris\u00e9 par cette aventure. Vite une bi\u00e8re !
\n\"\"<\/a>Au pub de Garston o\u00f9 j’arrive avec des \u00e9toiles dans les yeux et les polarisantes au cou, il y a un sympathique \u00e9ventail de buveurs comme ces fermiers aux cheveux blancs et teint rouge dont les mains calleuses agrippent des pintes d\u00e9goulinantes ou ces joviales quadrag\u00e9naires blondes aux seins lourds qui picorent des chips en ragotant sur leurs voisins.<\/p>\n

Appuy\u00e9 contre le billard, accompagn\u00e9 d’un bonhomme gentiment vout\u00e9 aux l\u00e8vres lipues et au regard doux, il y a un gars d’une trentaine qui porte un tshirt Sage, sa casquette orn\u00e9e de sauterelles et gros sedges finit de le griller comme p\u00eacheur.<\/p>\n

Je le branche dans la seconde. Au son de mon apr\u00e8s-midi il h\u00e8le l’assembl\u00e9e. Et les gars ce mec vient de faire la Nevis ! Yiiiah<\/em>. Dans un vrai western, il y aurait eu une brune aux yeux bleus qui serait venu secouer ses boucles dans un grand sourire. Mais les vraies belles brunes sont des farios ici et je paie une bi\u00e8re \u00e0 Dax sans savoir que c’est un guide professionnel<\/a> dont le 4×4 est embelli de 3 belles cannes \u00e0 mouche sur le capot. A la 3eme bi\u00e8re Dax en est \u00e0 me cercler une demie douzaine de rivi\u00e8res en rousp\u00e9tant C’est d\u00e9j\u00e0 bien assez d’informations comme \u00e7a… <\/em>God bless man !<\/p>\n

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Le lendemain matin je sors de ma tente pour enfiler mes waders alors que le jour se l\u00e8ve \u00e0 peine. La rivi\u00e8re n’est qu’\u00e0 quelques m\u00e8tres, peu profonde large d’une quinzaine de m\u00e8tres. J’ai \u00e0 peine fait 3 pas que je rep\u00e8re ais\u00e9ment post\u00e9 dans 15cm d’eau une longue truite au nageoire arrondie tout pr\u00e8s du bord. Je lui envoie mon petit sedge en poil de cervid\u00e9 qui dans un coup de queue se fait engamer instantan\u00e9ment.<\/p>\n

Et pour ne pas manquer ce qui semble devenir une tradition je rate mon ferrage ! Dans les 4h qui vont suivre je vais voir une douzaine de poissons dont quelques uns d\u00e9passant all\u00e8grement les 6 livres… Ici encore plus qu’ailleurs, surtout depuis que le niveau de l’eau est bas, les poissons sont excessivement craintifs et l’approche doit se faire d\u00e9licatement. Pas \u00e9vident quand on sait que parfois il faut parcourir 500m avant de voir une truite. Les impatients dans mon genre n’ont qu’a bien se tenir.<\/p>\n

Par deux fois je casserai au ferrage sur un bas de ligne de 10\/100\u00e8me sur des lancers tr\u00e8s longs avec de fantastiques poissons qui marsouinent derri\u00e8re des saules. Malgr\u00e9 la frustration quel plaisir d’observer la danse du ventre de ces flancs color\u00e9s louvoyant dans le courant, un spectacle mainte fois r\u00eav\u00e9 et proprement excitant. Mais Dieu que ces poissons sont durs \u00e0 prendre ! Jamais je n’en aurai fait fuir autant, rat\u00e9 autant, lanc\u00e9 quatorze mouches diff\u00e9rentes…<\/p>\n

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Mec, tu as p\u00each\u00e9 sur un des parcours les plus durs de la Mataura<\/em>, me lache Stu avec son regard de poss\u00e9d\u00e9, je connais des comp\u00e9titeurs de niveau mondial qui sont revenus bredouille !<\/em> Toujours habill\u00e9 de ses chemises de carnaval multicolores, Stu est le charismatique fondateur d’une des boutiques de p\u00eache les plus cultes de NZ: Stu’s Orgasmic Fly Sho<\/a>p, situ\u00e9 dans le petit village d’Athol au bord de la route.<\/p>\n

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Quelques 40m2 blind\u00e9s \u00e0 craquer de tout ce dont le moucheur a besoin plus quelques friandises comme A Foam Odyssey<\/a>, le film du patron dont il fait volontiers la promo. Stu parle beaucoup de lui avec ce regard d’hallucin\u00e9 qui pourrait en effrayer plus d’un \u00e0 commencer par les locaux qu’il semble agacer. Mais aucun de ses d\u00e9tracteurs n’aura le m\u00eame enthousiaste pour communiquer sa passion ni le style rockn’roll flamboyant qui font de Stu un personnage incontournable et attachant, monteur de mouche aux patterns in\u00e9dits, guide de p\u00eache et amoureux de son m\u00e9tier dont la devise est Living the Dream, Vis ton r\u00eave. Allez voir ses mouches<\/a> sur son site web, elles sont magnifiques !<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Le lendemain matin il est presque d\u00e9ja midi quand je gare mon 4×4 au bout d’un champ sur un parcours plus en aval que la veille. De r\u00e9putation, cette partie de la Mataura est un must o\u00f9 chacun veut p\u00eacher, les locaux consid\u00e8rent ses parcours comme hammered<\/em>, martel\u00e9s par tous les touristes dans mon genre ! D\u00e9j\u00e0 le long de la bute qui surplombe la berge, les semelles ont trac\u00e9 entre les ronces un chemin visible. Il fait chaud et coup de chance il n’y a quasiment pas de vent. L’eau est cristalline, la rivi\u00e8re file sur un lit de fin cailloux clairs, aussi sur ces longues \u00e9tendues peu profondes il est facile de rep\u00e9rer les truites qui du coup vous voit arriver de tr\u00e8s loin.<\/p>\n

Lorsque je m’approche \u00e0 pas de loup de la rivi\u00e8re je re\u00e7ois instantan\u00e9ment un choc. Alors que sur la plupart des cours d’eau il faut marcher interminablement pour voir une truite voici que sous mes pieds \u00e0 quelques 6\/8 m\u00e8tres une fario se nourrit paresseusement entre deux eau, comme d’habitude une bestiole de 3 livres minimum, proprement magnifique. Miracle ! \u00e0 3m au dessus il y a sa soeur, presqu’un peu plus grosse…<\/p>\n

Pendant 3h je vais p\u00eacher au paradis. Peu de poissons seront attaquables car trop loin, sinon trop difficiles et pourtant il y en a tellement. Quel bonheur ! Bien sur ils connaissent la chanson, ont vu d\u00e9filer du fil mais quand m\u00eame quel privil\u00e8ge de go\u00fbter une journ\u00e9e parfaite m\u00eame si pour l’instant je suis encore… capot.<\/p>\n

Finalement je d\u00e9cide de m’attaquer aux sp\u00e9cimens v\u00e9ritablement en activit\u00e9 avec la queue qui remue et la gueule qui sort de l’eau. Je lance mon caddis fetish sur l’une d’elle qui le trouve app\u00e9tissant. Je ferre et en deux secondes le poisson se d\u00e9croche… Je r\u00e9cup\u00e8re la mouche et d\u00e9couvre que l’hame\u00e7on est ouvert ! Moralit\u00e9 n’achetez pas vos mouches dans les grands magasins outdoor en NZ car elles sont fabriqu\u00e9es en Tha\u00eflande (qui sont plus dou\u00e9 pour la gastronomie ou les massages !). 300m plus loin sur un superbe plat qui ferait une double page de magasine je distingue les irisations d’une truite gobant avidement.<\/p>\n

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Je rentre dans l’eau et me cale vraiment derri\u00e8re elle pour ne pas rentrer dans son champ. J’attends quelques instants mais heureusement le poisson recommence \u00e0 se nourrir. Je lance un sedge bien fran\u00e7ais un peu momoche mais qui a d\u00e9j\u00e0 fait ses preuves. Il est au gout du poisson qui s’en empare imm\u00e9diatement. Je ferre, cette fois le poisson est piqu\u00e9 mais je n’ai \u00e0 peine le temps de souffler que la truite s’emballe et s’enfuit provoquant un rush interminable. Je regarde la banane aux l\u00e8vres la soie se d\u00e9vider, le poisson file en amont avec la nageoire dorsale crevant la surface: c’est \u00e0 croire que j’ai retrouv\u00e9 mes amis les bonefishs ! Justement quelle n’est pas mon hallucination de voir le backing passer dans les anneaux.<\/p>\n

Je comprends mieux maintenant pourquoi les p\u00eacheurs reviennent syst\u00e9matiquement sur la Mataura, certes c’est beau mais en plus les poissons sont des fus\u00e9es !<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Finalement apr\u00e8s un combat \u00e9pique je d\u00e9pose la truite dans l’\u00e9puisette, elle ne p\u00e8se pas plus de 4 livres mais c’est un poisson tout de muscles et de couleurs, tr\u00e8s corpulent et dense. A peine remis \u00e0 l’eau, le vent commence \u00e0 souffler, inutile d’insister plus, je retourne \u00e0 ma voiture pour continuer l’aventure sans savoir que le meilleur restait \u00e0 venir…<\/p>\n

Ask any foreign fly fishermen when he plans to fish in NZ and probably the name Mataura will appears in pole position. With its 230kms long the Mataura<\/a> offers a wide range of places that probably takes a lifetime to explore. It’s true that the river has the effect of a latin queen beauty: generous, voluptuous, sensual and terribly difficult to master.
\n\"\"<\/a><\/span><\/p>\n

To join its upper valley I took the Nevis road because some kiwis told me it was beautiful. Basically when a kiwi says it’s beautiful you can be sure it’s going to be mindblowing! The Nevis road is a 45 miles road that follows the Nevis river from Crownell to Garston, cutting straight through the mountain. the scenery is made of rounded mountains, narrow canyons, wide plains with purple plants and tons of fords everywhere. It is definitely one of the most spectacular drive I did, the raw and limpid music of Wolfmother (check Mind’s Eye !)<\/a> enhanced this powerful feeling of true adventure.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>Two hours later I will arrive on top of the plateau, a light rain spread a grey curtain on the vasy valley that stands in front of me. The sun pierced the clouds and enlighten in a very biblical clich\u00e9 the green foothills of the Mataura valley. It will take me almost half an hour to drive down the last miles on the small spiral dirt road.<\/span><\/p>\n

5 minutes after I get in Garston pub where a mix crowd is enjoying a late afternoon drink : the red face-white hair farmers who drinks in silence, the jolly smily luscious ladies in their late forties who keep themselves busy gossiping all around while picking some potato chips and also, close to the pool table a young man wears a Sage Tshirt and his cap is loaded with flies.<\/span><\/p>\n

In one second I told him I have the same addiction and start to describe my afternoon. He interrupts me quickly to yell to the audience: Hey Ben just did the Nevis !<\/em> In a true western movie a lovely brunette would have come next to me with a lascivious smile. But the lovely brunettes are lovely brownies in Gartson that swims just few meters from the pub so fishing talks rules. Offer me a beer ask my new mate Dax, Yes of course but let me get my map I reply cause I just feel like Dax is the man who knows, and it was long before knowing he is a professional guide<\/a> and seeing his massive 4×4 with three rods on the hood rack. Three beers later Dax is binding river names on my map, for each marker I can hear his moaning : Ok this time that’s enough information !<\/em> God bless you bro’<\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>Next morning I am out of my tent at dusk, the river is few meters from me, calm and pristine in the grey morning fog. From where I stand I can see in few inches of water, two foot from the shore, a long brown trout with large fins.\u00a0 With my faithful caddis, I cast in front of the fish which took the fly in a second. Not to change an habit that is about to be a tradition I miss the strike…<\/span><\/p>\n

For the next four hours to go, I will spot probably twelve fishs some of them exceeding 6 pounds. The major difficulty comes with the low level of water: you will see fish more easily and so do they ! Something that impatient guys like me have to keep in mind when you know that you have to walk sometimes half a mile to see a trout !<\/span><\/p>\n

Twice I will broke my 6X tippet on a strike, 60 feet from me, on rising brownies half hidden behind willow trees. Apart from the torturing frustration of not taking those beautiful fishs in my hands, I finally decide to sit down and simply enjoy the astonishing sight of those feeding trouts in such a wonderful landscape. But God those trouts are difficult…<\/span><\/p>\n


\n\"\"<\/a>Yes my man you have fished in one the most challenging area of the Mataura,<\/em> will tell me Stu when I am describing my morning. I know guys who are world championship competitors and that couldn’t take fish here !<\/em> Dressed with fancy shirts, looking at you with round eyes and punctuating his words with a large smile, Stu is definitely a character in the upper Mataura valley. He owns Stu’s FFsho<\/a>p a must see for every fishermen who come in the area.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>A small house on highway’s border stuffed with fishing tackle plus few delicacies like A Foam Odissey<\/a>, Stu’s own DVD for which he does a non-stop promotion. \u00a0Huge enthusiasm when it comes to share his passion for fishing ! His personal sentence is also ours when we come to the Mataura : Living the dream ! Without going to NZ you can still have a look on the web at his flies<\/a> they are awesome !<\/span><\/p>\n

The next day it’s already midday when I go to another section more downstream. It’s hot and not very windy which sounds like dry fly to me. There is a small hill that overhang the river, here I can walk in a dirt path in between the bramble built by the hundreds of wading boots who have walked there before me. It’s not difficult to understand the popularity of this area when I came close to the water.<\/span><\/p>\n

The river is a fantasma for a double page FlyFishing magazine ! It’s wide enough to cast on the other bank, clear and pure, it runs on a small stone sometime sand perfectly clear bed. Just there beside me there is a big trout and 6 foot upstream another one. Pure delight !<\/span><\/p>\n

During three hours I will fish in paradise. Few fish are easy to cast, most of them would see me before I could even move my arm, but there are lots of them, maybe 50, 60 fish and not a small one. What a tremendous privilege to taste such a perfect day on a legendary spot even if for now on I still haven’t caught any fish!<\/span><\/p>\n

My strategy is to cast on real feeding fish who rise in the surface with a moving tail. I cast on one of them, the strike is good but the line comes back to me in a second empty of any brownie. Guess what ? the hook of the fly opened ! The lesson: never buy your flies at the big kiwi outdoor shops because they are tied in Thailand a country more well known for its gastronomy and massages !<\/span><\/p>\n

300meters upstream I can see some constant rises and yes it is a lovely fish, with extreme care I wade and go behind to cast my caddis that lands perfectly in front of it. The brown trout smash the tiny dark point with a noisy eager and believe it or not my strike is good but I don’t have time to breathe or enjoy this small victory that already the fish is rushing upstream with a strenght that reminds me of the caribean bonefish.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Smiling stupidily to my rod and reel I guess that the backing is about to be efficient. But that brown trout is not even a monster ! It’s easy to figure out why so much fishermen comes back in the Mataura valley like some kind of holy pilgrimage. Finally the trout is in the net after a 50metres and so rushes, it’s probably a 3 or 4 pounds fish, colourful, dense and strong. While releasing this beauty the wind just starts to blow which is the moving signal to dig other crazy spots. Of course I didn’t knew then that the best was to come…<\/span><\/p>\n

Some pics are from Dax Messet’s website<\/a>
\n<\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Quand ce ne sont pas des canyons o\u00f9 au hasard d’un tournant d\u00e9guerpissent des moutons affol\u00e9s, il s’\u00e9tale tout au long de la piste des prairies d’herbes hautes couleur lie-de-vin. Malgr\u00e9 un temps changeant venteux avec du crachin, impossible de ne pas s’enthousiasmer par tant de beaut\u00e9 . J’intensifie cette euphorie avec l’\u00e9coute volume maximale de Wolfmother dont le rock m\u00e9lodieux mais couillu (check mind’s eye !) fonctionne \u00e0 merveille dans ces atmosph\u00e8res sauvages et min\u00e9rales. La ballade se finit […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":false,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[15854,15849,15853],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-69408","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-el-mouching","category-nature","category-travel"],"yoast_head":"\nLE MOUCHING IN NZ \/ THE MATAURA, KIWI MECCA \u2013\u00a0INCONTOURNABLE\u00a0MATAURA - Le Mouching<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/lemouching.com\/en\/2010\/04\/le-mouching-in-nz-the-mataura-kiwi-mecca-incontournable-mataura\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"LE MOUCHING IN NZ \/ THE MATAURA, KIWI MECCA \u2013\u00a0INCONTOURNABLE\u00a0MATAURA - Le Mouching\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Quand ce ne sont pas des canyons o\u00f9 au hasard d’un tournant d\u00e9guerpissent des moutons affol\u00e9s, il s’\u00e9tale tout au long de la piste des prairies d’herbes hautes couleur lie-de-vin. 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